***Street Trends and High Fashion****

*Zoot Suits!

The zoot suit was a very controversial fashion style used by ethnic groups in big cities in 1940's America.  It was an emblem of ethnicity and a way of showing pride in their ethnicity. In this picture a police officer is threatening to cut of this zoot suiters' hair 'tail' that was part of the style and a great source of pride for this youth.pic courtesy of: www.invention.smithsonian.org

A new take on the zoot suit by Band of Outsiders ('08 USA).  The suit is actually made out of nylon, and expresses the same feeling of rebelling against the normative suit of the common man.

www.moducouture.blogspot.comA take on the zoot suit from Tom Ford ('09 USA).  Showy, eye-catching details are abound in this suit... also a rebellion against the common materials and fit from the average man's working suit.

www.moducouture.blogspot.com

PUNK!!The British Punk scene in the 70's... ahh... punks... gotta love 'em.  So awesome. Deconstruction, safety pins, spray paint, leather, burnt cotton... yeah.... ;)

http://images.quizfarm.com

The grand dame of the british punk scene: Vivienne Westwood (Fall '07).  Still using a 'deconstructed' aesthetic and plaid... why do these always work??? :)

www.pursepage.com/forum

Another designer super familiar with the old-school punk scene... Pam Hogg.  She is a Scottish punk music icon who started a fashion line way back in the 70's.  This is her line in  March of '09.  Lots 'o vinyl, arm/leg bands, and sheer material... kinda a futuristic punk feel I think.

www.vmagazine.com

MOD!!

Twiggy... 1970's Britain.  Mod-a-licious!  Shift dresses, A-line dresses, tights, pop art references, 'grandma shoes or boots, and scooters! yeah!

www.the modgeneration.co.ukwww.freewebs.com/sohobrighton/Mod70.jpg

Current 'mod' fashion by Missoni (Italian /Winter '07).  Keeping true to the vibrant mod-like colors and A-line, geometric lines that were indica

tive of the style.

www.style.com

British supermodel Agnes Deyn  sportin a more masculine form of the mod style(in Topshop in Manchester).  This look is more popular in America now than the female counterpart... so that's pretty interesting :) ...pointy men's shoes, skinny jeans, leather jacket, wrapped scarf...

www.teenvogue.com

HIP HOP!! (hooray!)

A hilarious 80's pic of the Grandmaster Flash and the Furious Five! haha!  Oh... 80's hip hop styles...the hair, the bling, the bodysuits/tracksuits, the 7

0's pimp revival... how do we love thee...??

www.media.photobucket.com

The only thing more ridiculous than true 80's fashion is when Dsquared pairs it with business casual!! barf... really... look at this... really??  They ruined the 80's with this line.  Sorry if you disagree, but this is horrible...bleck.

http://o-ze.comKarl lagerfeld gettin on the creepy bandwagon.... wow... what a creepy man.  The guys on the left look fabulous though! I dig the matching suit coat and luggage in that blue! yeah!.  I also like the use of the 80's preppy look mixed in with the hip hop... freshy fresh.

www.garvey's-ghost.blogspot.com

TEDDY BOYS!!

The Teddy boys were a large group of teens in Britain during the 1950's.  This subculture was heavily influenced by Edwardian styles and American Rock & Roll.  Their formal 'tux-like' attire clashed greatly with their surrounding WWII British dodgy neighborhoods.  

www.sixitiescity.com An updated version of the Teddy Boy from Comme des Garcon Homme (French, Fall'05).  Notice the similar pocket placements and collar shape.

www.men.style.com

Teddy 'boy' style was also huge with the ladies... as seen here back in Britain and now with a style from the Empire Line that was on exhibit at the RichMix in London by Gavin Fernandes. www.zeigermann.com and www.dianepernet,typepad.com/.../gavin fernandes.html

DISCO!!! (fever)

Iconic 70's disco movie 'Saturday Night Fever'  (Diggin the tight white suit John...).  Disco balls, polyester suits, flowy dresses, tight sparkly pants with high heels... disco inferno! 

www.beautiful-tomorrow.blogspot.com

Some disco-inspired handbags by Fendi ('08).  Shiny, bling, bling central... makes ya want to dance :)

www.thebaglady.tv

Straight outta the 70's... YSL S/S '08.  Slinky jerset knit dresses with sparkly stars...wow... umm...yeah...

www.thefashionspot.com

HIPPY/BOHEMIAN!!

 Jimi Hendrix (circa 1967).  Can't get much hippier than this.  Sex, drugs, and Rock and Roll... bell bottoms, fros, tie-dye,  psychedelic prints, and moccasins...    

 http://images.art.com

A new take on Bohemian/Hippy by Diane Von Furstenburg.  Still has all the elements of the love child, down to the strappy shoes, but much more toned-down and beautiful.

www.greenclothingblog.com/tag/boho-chic

Another nice take from the hippy trend.  This paisley beauty is from Etro (S/S '07). Very Effeminate and flattering... Purdy purdy.

www.style.com

BEATNIKS!!!

The Beatnik painting was done by a man named John here in America 

at: www.doodledose.blogspot.com/2008/04/beatnik-go-go

...I think it does a great 

job summarizing the look.

The jacket is from Marks & Spencer-a large British store (www.howtolookgood.com).  It has a french/beatnik motif with a bit of classic drama. 

The fashion line up was a line by Emporio Armani (Italian) and can be found at:

www.madisonmag.com.au 

... the hair, berets, slimline fit, and ultra 'cool' aesthetic screa

ms beatnik influence.

For the next two street trends only slightly mentioned in any module is:

1) The 'Fruits' in Japan...a very popular street trend with many subsets... punk,gothic, babydoll, clown costumes, music dj, anime, etc. all heavily influence this style of dress...

A more 'high' fashion style from designer: 'Eatable and Many Orders' ('09)- inspired from the oversize clown-like aesthetic of the 'Fruits'

www.missnatalie.com

Another Fruit inspired designer is a Helsinki-based street designer known as Hel Looks.  Oversized/exxagerated forms ...although toned-down in color obviously. www.missnatalie.com

Street Trend 2:  Rockabilly/Retro Pin-up Girl:

The clssic high-waisted/belted midrif, cheetah high heels, red lipstick, and 40's sty;e hair... so cool.... designer unknown..

www.fashiofeen.wordpress.com

 A look from Danger Dame.com...  Cute!! So 40's/50's ...  not sure of the designer's name... searched and searched to no avail...

Ready-to-wear version of rockabilly from the Dutch design house 'Noir'.  (from their Winter '07 line) www.daylife.com

  

Historical Art Styles!

Historical Art Styles and Their Influence on Fashion!

Cubism(1908-1920):

The Cubists emphasized flat, two-dimensional surfaces and rejected realism.  They ignored perspective, foreshortening, etc.  The cubists reduced everything into a cube shape and fragmented objects and often showed multiple sides simultaneously.  The following are examples of Cubist artwork and fashion directly influenced by it...

photos courtesy of:  www.galleries.absolutearts.com(Pablo Picasso) and www.guardian.co.uk/ lifeandstyle/gallery/2008

Gothic (1100-1450):

Originated in Italy, the Gothic style spread quickly throughout Europe.  It represented a shift from the Dark ages into a more civilized society, and thus increased naturalism.  Gothic art was heavily influenced by Christianity and was predominately characterized by arches, stained glass, and illuminated manuscripts.  See below to see an example of how it has influenced modern fashion:

photos courtesy of www.bookrags.com and www.guardian.co.uk

Pop Art (1958-1975):

'Popular Art' used common everyday objects to portray elements of popular culture in the media.  It was an attempt to shatter the divide between commercial arts and fine arts, and bring back art into daily life.  The Pop artists rejected abstract painting, as well as the consumerism and materialism that was gaining popularity due to the wealth of post WWII.

It greatly influenced fashion in the day as well as currently....

photos cortesy of:  www.pref.ibaraki.jp and www.fashionvisa.com (designer: Manish Arora)

Minimalism (1960-1975):

Minimalism rejects the need for social comment, self-expression, any allusion to history, politics, or religion. It is purely based on the aesthetics.  The Minimalists reduced their work to the fewest number of colors, shapes, lines, etc to achieve a precise/hard-edged look. Mathematics/geometrics were often used as well as cool hues or unmixed colors.  Industrial materials were also coomonly used to eliminate the evidence of an artist's hand.   Fashion was greatly influenced by this style and is still today 

very evident in many designers' inspiration...

photos courtesy of: www.middlebury.edu (artist:Clement Meadmore); www.furniturestoreblog.com; www.fashiontribes.typepad.com (Calvin Klein).

Romanticism (1800-1850):

Romantism emphasized emotional, spontaneous, and imagination.  In artwork this meant a departure from classical canons and a movement towards spiritual and emotional themes.  This romantic movement came about in relation to the sudden political/social changes in the French Revolution.  It was in revolt to the rational/ordered Neoclassism movement that was popular in that day.  The Romantics used movement, emotion, individualism, subjectivity, and herocism.  Anything exotic, mysterious, value-based, and bucolic was very popular amonsgt these artists.  Obviously the Bohemian clothing style as well as many other clothing styles were a direct result from this artistic movement...

photos courtesy of: www.jeffreykbedrick.com/ladyofshallot.html (artist: J.W.Waterhouse); and www.anina.typepad.com (designer: Natalie Wood)

Art Deco (1920-1935):

Art Deco was characterized by linear decorative designs that were similar to the modern technology of the time.  Long, thin lines and geometric patterns were often used, as was intense colors.  The movement definitely borrowed from Cubism, Futurism, and Constructivism.   Machinery and automobile parts with stylized gears, wheels, etc.. were common themes in art deco artwork.  Common day architecture, fashion, jewelry, and textiles still use these concepts endlessly...

photos courtesy of:  www.forum.skyscraperpage.com; and www.news.bbc.co.uk (designer: Zac Posen)

History of Handbags!!

                                                              History of the Handbag!!!

The first known appearance of handbags was seen in Egyptian hieroglyphics and stone carvings in the Middle East.  Some were worn around the waist while others seem to be held in the hand as offerings.  The following are some examples of such stone carvings...

This stone 'bag' is from Jiroft, Iran (5-7,000 yrs old):

photos courtesy of:   www.crystalink.com/sumergodstree;  www.crystalinks.com/nimrodpurse2.jpg; www.test.travelblog.org/Photos/523062.html

The next time that handbags were supposedly seen was not until the 14th Century Europe (a long long time to not be seen I think, but I couldn't find proof otherwise).  It seems that these handbags were mostly used by women, were attached to their dresses or girdles.  The bags were made out of fine silks and very elaborately decorated with beading and silver and gold-threaded embroidery.  They were a status symbol as well as serving an utilitarian purpose.  See attached photos:

Photos courtesy of: adventuresingarb.blogspot.com; www.gotgarb.com; and www.photrmn.fr

In the 15th century it was common for both men and women to carry a handbag.  According to Wikipedia, it was also common for men to give their new brides a purse that was embroidered with an intricate depiction of a love story.  Because ladies gowns were getting more and more detailed, ladies often chose to wear their flat-styled handbags under their dresses/skirts. Here are some examples:                                                                                                                                     

photos coutesy of: saramharveyblogspot.com; pages.videotron.com; and www.dargate.com

In the 16th century, handbags generally started to become trite and made out of less precious materials (to become more durable and affordable, I presume?).  Many bags were made out of leather or cloth with drawstring closures.  Also at this time people started to wear their handbags across their chests.            

(photo courtesy of: love-handbags-for-life.co.uk)

In 17th Century Europe, men mostly stopped carrying handbags due to the increased pocket space in the new breeches that were popular.  It was also supposedly common for women to hand embroider their own handbags as women were taught sewing/embroidery to make them better marriage material. The first picture is a marriage bag; the second is a teardrop belt purse, and the last image is an intricate bag from holland.

(photos courtesy of: www.karlrobinson.co.uk; www.museums.norfolk.gov.uk; and www.us.holland.com)

In 18th century Europe, women's purses faded in popularity until the French Revolution when the neo-classcical clothing once again had fewer underclothings and ladies needed space to store their belongings.  Many ladies had several handbags and in them they usuallt stored things similar to what may be found in a modern purse... rouge, fans, face powder, visiting cards, smelling salts, etc. 

(information from:  love-handbags-for-life.co.uk and wikipedia.com)     Some examples follow... 

(photos courtesy of:www.dargate.com, and www.

The 19th century saw many changes in handbags.  Due to the vastly changing world, the industrial revolution, and better travel mobility, styles changed quickly.  The first bag is from the first half of the century and resembles the 18th century bags.  The second bag is also from the early part of the century, but from Asia and quite different in style and cannot hold as many things.  The third bag is made from a metal mesh and from the latter half of the 19th century.

(photos courtesy of: www.thimblesociety.com, www.mfa.com, and www.cecilhigginsartgallery.org)

The 20th century perhaps saw the biggest change in the textiles used to create handbags and the degree to which they could be mass-produced.  New products such as plastic, rayon, and many other synthetics have created to capabilities in handbags capabilities.  Although leather, metal, shell, and beading still remain just as prevalent as ever.  Styles of bags seemed to get smaller when fashion silhouettes became more streamlined and became larger when fashion styles also became more less-fitted and billowy.    Some examples are: 

1) early 20th century:

                                                                                                           

2) 1920's:

3) 1950's:

4) 1980's:

(photos courtesy of: www.museumoflondon.org/uk; www.coogles.com; www.picasaweb.google.com; www.lucumafashion.com)  

The 21st century:  With new textile and mechanical inventions continuing to develop rapidly, the future of every type of fashion piece is limitless.  It will be so exciting to see what becomes of everyday items such as the handbag... what will it be able to do for us?? ...It's pretty cool to think about....